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Know Senegal

Ceebu Jen Millet and Everyday Cooking

  • 5 min read
  • The editorial team of Teranga Fieldnotes
A steaming platter of ceebu jen with red fish and vegetables over broken rice, served on a low table with enamel cups
A steaming platter of ceebu jen with red fish and vegetables over broken rice, served on a low table with enamel cups.

You will learn how ceebu jen is cooked and shared in Senegal, and how millet, peanut, market snacks and shared bowls fit around it. The pages describe ceebu jen as the national dish of Senegal, a one pot plate of fish, broken rice and tomato sauce eaten together as a sign of teranga.

What makes ceebu jen the national plate

In Wolof the name joins ceeb, which means rice, and jen, which means fish. In Pulaar the same idea is named maaro e liddi, which means rice and fish. Other spellings move between ceebu jen, cee bu jen, thieboudienne, thiebou dienn and riz au poisson, and in Senegal the dish is sometimes called benechin, which means one pot in Wolof. The preparation described is fish with broken rice and tomato sauce cooked in one pot. It is commonly attributed to the city of Saint-Louis in the nineteenth century, and it is also consumed in Mauritania, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Mali, The Gambia and other West and Central African countries. If you learn first Wolof words for market talk, the words for rice and fish help you follow what sellers and cooks name on the tray.

How does one pot turn into lunch

You will often see the fish marinated with parsley, lemon, garlic and onions, then cooked with tomato paste and vegetables. The lists name onions, tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, cassava, pumpkin, turnip, eggplant, parsley, peppers, garlic, hot pepper, lime, peanut oil and stock cubes. Broken rice, also called rice Wolof, is added to the mix and takes on a reddish look from the tomato. The fish named for the center of the tray is usually white grouper. Fresh or dried fish can be used, and although the plate started with fish it is not unusual to see it served with beef or chicken. Two named forms sit beside the fish version, tiep yappa with meat and tiep ganaar with chicken.

Where do millet and peanut meet rice

Rice is not the only base. Saadj, also written chere, is described as a traditional millet couscous. Bassi-salte is a traditional stew of seasoned meat cooked with tomato paste and vegetables and served over chere. Peanuts are named as the primary cash crop of Senegal, and they return in several plates. Maafe cooks seasoned fish, chicken, lamb or beef with vegetables in a tomato and peanut butter sauce. Thiabou guerté, the peanut rice, follows the same fried meat method as the meat and chicken rice plates, but peanut butter replaces mustard and is thinned with water so the meat soaks up flavor before the rice is added. That peanut plate is described as rarely cooked, kept for special occasions.

What does the shared bowl ask of you

Traditionally the dish is eaten from a large communal dish with the hand. Family, visiting friends and guests gather around a single dish called a bolus, and each person eats with the hand or with a spoon called a couddou in Pulaar. On large trays the rice sits on the bottom while the fish and the vegetables, many of them left whole, are placed in the center. The custom is presented as a symbol of Senegalese terranga, or hospitality. The detailed fish and rice account lists the same serving order and the names used for the bowl and spoon. You sit close, you eat from the section in front of you, and you watch the pace of older people and guests before you reach for more fish or vegetables.

What will you find as street food and market snacks

Fattaya is named most often as a street food. It is fried dough filled with French fries, a thick yassa onion sauce, a fried egg and a bit of ketchup and hot sauce. Dibi is fire grilled meat, usually lamb, although chicken or beef can also be found. For breakfast, ndambe means beans cooked in a spiced tomato paste, typically served on bread as a sandwich, alongside bread and cafe touba. In marketplaces the peanut cookie called cinq centimes is a common small purchase. Other plates around the same stalls include yassa, where chicken or fish is first marinated with spices then simmered with onion, garlic, mustard and lemon juice and served with plain white rice, a method attributed to the Jola people, plus tchou with fish balls in tomato and onion, caldou with fish and vegetables, capitaine stuffed with spices, soupe kandia with okra, and sombi, a sweet milk and rice soup.

How do regions and groups change the recipe

Senegalese cooking is described as deriving from many ethnic groups, with Wolof, Fula and Serer named, and the same foods appear across the surrounding countries under different names or with small changes. People close to the Atlantic use more fish, while habits linked to nomadism and cattle raising shape meat cooking inland. The southern part of Senegal usually adds some bissap to tiep, while Dakar and Saint Louis cooks use some soul in Wolof. Beyond Senegal the pattern keeps shifting. In Mali tiep is known as tieb with chicken, rice and a tomato and onion base of vegetables. In Cameroon, Guinea and Ivory Coast the dish is called riz gras with tomatoes, rice and onions. Jollof rice, thought to have come from thieboudienne, is popular especially in Nigeria and Ghana and is usually made with meat rather than fish, with the rice mixed into the other ingredients. If you travel, read how regions differ for long stays and expect the tomato base to stay while the meat, fish and garnish change.

Why does the fish matter right now

The collapse of white grouper fisheries has reduced access to the dish, and that loss touches both diet and culture. The dish is listed as intangible cultural heritage of humanity. The Gullah plate called red rice is described as resembling thieboudienne, with regional forms such as Savannah red rice and Charleston red rice, which points to foodways carried from West Africa and reshaped in the New World. For drinks around the meal, bissap made from hibiscus flowers, water and sugar is central, sometimes with mint leaves and orange blossom, alongside dakhar from tamarind, gingembre from ginger, bouye from baobab fruit, ditakh, mango and soursop called corossol, plus attaya made from gunpowder tea, sugar and mint and served in a ritual fashion. The Wikipedia page on Senegalese cuisine does not publish details on moringa. Pork is usually not used because the population is largely Muslim, while chicken, lamb, beef, peas, eggs, sweet potatoes, cassava, black eyed peas and millet couscous appear across the stews. Ask at the market which fish was used that day and whether the vegetables are whole, then eat from the communal tray at the pace of the group.

About the English Wikipedia page titled Thieboudienne. It presents ceebu jen as a main dish from Saint Louis in Senegal and gives alternate names, ingredients, serving custom and variations. It lists fish and broken rice with tomato, onion and vegetables, meat and chicken forms, country versions and ethnic notes. Read its ingredient lists and serving notes before you shop so you can name rice, fish and vegetables at the stall.